A Tour of Dakshin Kali and environs
- Bhesh Jung Badal
Shakti :
Divine Energy
In Hinduism female counter parts of the male gods are regards as Shakti representing divine energy. No creation or evolution can take place without the involvement of this female energy. The most important female principle, Shakti is embodied in the consort of Shiva. One of the Hindu Trinity. The male and female Principles consist in the duality concept of Shiva – Shakti however, the female principle represents the primary source of cosmogony and as such stand at the apex of all worship.
Shiva is known by 10008 names and his consort similarly has many Shakti is also called the Mother Goddess or the Great mother and is referred to by numerous names like sati, Parvati. Uma, Gauri, Devi. Bhawani, Durga. Chandi kali etc.
There are two aspects of the female power, one benign and the other wrathful or destructive. Uma and pravati are benign and noble aspect while Durga or Devi is the embodiment of ravishing beauty and extra oridinary powers, the goddess who killed the buffalo- demon named Mahishasura. To commemorate this occasion, Nepal’s greatest Hindu festival Dasain (Durga Puja) is annually observed.
Kali
Kali or the black on is the most terrifying form of Shakti. She is dark complexloned and half head and wears a garland of human skulls or serverd human heads. In may fury to destroy the Evil, her whole body shakes her tongue sticking out and blood dripping from it. She normally has four hands; in one she carries a serverd head in another a lethal sword. Two hands are usually ralsed in a boon giving pose.
Dakshin Kali
There are serveral forms of kali worshlpped in Nepal: Bhadra kali.. Dakshinkali, Danta kali etc. Of these, Dakshin kali located in southern Kathmandu valley represents the most powerful and wish fulfilling goddess. She is the family goddess of Nepal’s Shah kings and is worshipped with great reverence and faith.
Besides being revered by humans . Dakshin kali is worshipped by the Almighty Gods Brahma, Vishnu and Mashesh. It is mentioned that the is Siddhi, the most accomplished one, and her worship in the current kaliyuge (age of sinfulness) is a must for every human being. There is a strong notion among the Kathmandu people that Dakshin kali is the eastest of gods and goddess to please and that once she is pleased, she will become generous with gifts and blessings, and will at the same time absolve one’s sins and even crimes committed.
A Guided Tour
The temple of Dakshin Kali is located about 22 km from central Kathmandu. The road leading to the temple present many picturesque rural views and interesting places which are described below:
The first is kirtipur campus of Tribhuvan University. Just beside kirtipur village. To see this small Newar town ship, enter through the main gate of the university and go straight ahead along the motoralbe road to the ancient fortress town. It has a beautiful Ashoka stupa and the temples of Bagbhairab and Uma Maheshwara.
Further alone on the way to Dakshin kali is a give with a yellow signboard bearing the words ishwart Marg. i.e Road to Goddess. From the gate one goes up the stairs to reach Chaubar village. Here is famous temple dedicated to Adinath, constructed during the early Lichhavi period.
The main road then climbs the slopes of the chaubar hill towards Himal Cement Factory. On the left side there is a short turn off, a narrow dusty road which serves as a parking area. About two minutes walk form here is Chaubar Gorge. Legend has it that the Kathmandu valley was inftially a lake until a saint named Manjushri cut through the hill here with a divine sword, letting the water drain out. There is a small suspension bridge over the gorge.
After descending the hill near the gorge one reaches the famous temple of Jal Vinayak or Ganesh, the elephant headed deity. It is one of the four famous Ganesh temples located in the four corners of the Kathmandu valley and is well worth a visit. The idol of Ganesh is carved on a big rock under the canopy. The temple has exquisitely carved erotic posses on its struts. Beynod the Himal cement factory one pases the only natural lake in the Kathmandu valley called Taudaha lake known for its clear water and a halting place for migratory ducks travelling from Siberia to India. Fish also abound it.
After Taudaha lake, the road goes uphill and reach a famous religious sanctuary located in a calm and scenic setting. Hindu’s call it Sheshnarayan or sikhanaryan while Buddhist call kit Yanglesho. An anceient temple and a Tibetan monastery stand side by side as concrete evidence of the blending of Hinduism and Budhism in Nepal. On the left side, there is a flight of steps leading to the temple which enshrines a four – handed idol of Vishnu. In front of the temple sit two big giures of Garuda and Ganesh an old cabe(9) where in a Tibetan monk dwells, has some faint impressions of heads and hands on its walls.
According to Tibetan literature a famous Indian Tantric Padmasambhava subdued gods, spirts and demons from this place. Padmasambhava was a power ful exorcist and meditated at this place on his way to Tibet at the invitation of king Trishong Desten. While padmasambhave was in a trance at this place, a number of venomous snakes appeared and hung down to disturb him. Even today serval serpentine structures can be seen hanging down from the rocky mountain. There is a beautiful image of Padmasambhava and prayer hall.
Dakshin Kali
The distance by road from sheshnarayan to Dakshin kali is about 2 km. There are also short cut foot- tracks which reach the temple.
The temple, located under the shade of trees adjacent to a rivulet, is designed after Tantra – Yantra the geometric triangle signifying the female principle of procreation. It has an open arched metal roof. towards the top of which are four figures of gilded snakes which suppots the crowing protion. The temple courtyard is paved and a small entrance guarded by a row of metallic lion figures, vehicles of the goddess. On the left side of the courtyard there is a small idol of Bhairab under a canopy. The side walls are fixed with idols of Ganesh and other goddesses. In front of the main entrance on the left side is the idol of Dakshin Kali, the most powerful one. She is well – decorated with a tiara and various other ornaments. The goddess is eight – armed standing on her legs and lifting her body up a little, on to shiva, pointing victory over time. On the right side is ashed which is the resing place for the shrine’s custodians. These people reveive visitor’s offerings the sacrificing of animals of chickens and make votive offering for the worshiper.
Above the Dakshin Kali idol is a beautiful metallic tympanum (toran). showing Makara(alligator), sea mon- sters and serpent maids. On the left side of the idol are fixed square marble places imprinted with a large pearcockm mainly for decornative purposes. In some places the temple walls are painted with pictures of human skeletons which are indicative of various spirits and super- human beings that really round the goddess.
Animal Sacrifices
Animals are sacrificed regularly at Dakshin Kali on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Male goats and cocks but never female nor castrated animals are sacrufuced bt devitees. The shakatas (followers of Shakti) follow the custom of sacrificing animals as part of ritualistic worship, the logic being that it staisfles the goddess’s blood- thirsty desire; and as a result she becomes pleased and blesses the person who worships her. Those who can not afford to sacrifice animal offer eggs as substitute. The animal sacrifices, however, present a gruesome sight to those who are not accustomed to such practices.
Mother of Dakshin Kali
Above a flight of stairs on a small hillock there is a small temple said to be of the mother of Dakshin Kali (14) While going up, one can see several metal bells hanging which are probably fixed by those whose wishes have been fulfilled. This temple is made of brick and stone supported on pillars. The idol of the goddess is sculpted on a big rock (15); in front of her the figure of Ganesh is carved on a small stone (160. Before the idol there is a perpetual fire (dhuni) lit up by ascetics. It has been burning for hundreds or even thousands the temple (170 from which one can enjoy the scenic natural beauty of the for ested valley. Serveral spectes of fasctnating birds are found in this forest.
How to Get There
From central Kathmandu it takes about 45 minutes to reach Dakshin Kali by taxt. A taxi normally charges Rs 1200 – 1500 for 4 to 5 person( round – trip) and may not be willing to stop for sightseeing along the way. Minibuses operate from near the Martyr’s Gate (Shahid Gate) especially on Saturdays.
Taking sightseeing tour with one of Kathmandu’s travel agents of fers the services of an expert guide along the way as well as around Dakshin Kali temple. Half – day guided sightseeing tours are operated daily .At Dakshin Kali the bus stops for 45 minutes. On your return you can stop at sheshnarayan and Chaubar Gorge.
February 2024
